I often get questions on how to clean a CSM. My first response is please send me a photo of your machine (so that I can better address what they might be asking in the term of “clean”).
I feel ANYONE can ‘clean’ their machine, certainly with an organized approach anything is possible however here are some resources which might make your cleaning session easier. :)
If your machine simply has a fibre build up, its best to remove the debris in a way that ideally won’t scratch or damage any finish/paint. Please note that you should be checking your machine for fibre buildup, depending on use, on some kind of regular basis.
For great tools and supplies please see SUPPLIES I LIKE (Cleaning the CSM)
The cylinder shown on the right is one from an Auto Knitter. The owner of this machine did not know she was supposed to clean (or oil) her machine and had used it for many, many years to make tubes for off machine after-thought heels/toes. For more info on those kinds of socks please see CSM PATTERNS AND MORE. The fibre you are seeing on the outside lower end of the cylinder is EVERYWHERE including the slots so you can imagine how compact the buildup was. What you see is a before photo of the cylinder and an “in-progress” fibre removal without real tools over the space of my lunchtime.
Ok so you have a machine and you are interested in removing the years of dirt/grease.
It is my opinion that when one first gets a machine, one should take the time to learn the part names and how they assemble. By taking that time you gain familiarity and confidence in your machine. How does one go about that? Please see CSM START - this reviews many essential points that all CSM owners should be aware of.
So you checked out the CSM START page and are back, supplies in hand with oil and everything.
The photos below are from J. Whiteside’s Legare she recently received. (Thanks again).
The machine as you can see isn’t outwardly covered in fibre and seems only slightly oil/dirty - however the slots and crevices might be another thing all together. Once familiar with your machine, lay out old towels on a flat surface and systemically dismantle your machine. Consider taking photos - including a photo of how the cams appear once the cylinder is removed and set aside. Need a refresher? See the AUTO KNITTER VIDEO
I do NOT recommend removing the Tension screw or its mount - this is the screw like part you turn to change the stitch size from tighter to looser (it moves the V cam up and down).
Don’t dismantle this tension dial or its screws
After removing cylinder screws and cylinder and setting aside on the old towel, take the time to note the surfaces of the metal, note any cracks, uneven surfaces etc. I suggest dismantling and laying out all the parts prior starting with the good quality grease busting dish soap and toothbrushes.
Plan to gently scrub the metal with your toothbrush and soap, rinse and dry the part to reduce non-painted metal oxidizing. Once dry please wipe unpainted (and even painted) surfaces with a little oil to keep the metal happy. Consider how when one uses a cast iron frying pan one must not wash and let it be - but actually recoat with oil to protect the metal.
DRYING: You can safely use a hairdryer to speed metal drying and/or put the wet parts on a tea towel on a baking sheet in a oven with an extremely low heat setting. Monitor. Treat as if cleaning a cast iron frying pan*
With the Legare and similar CLOSED CAM systems you certainly CAN remove the two left and two right screws holding the lower left and right cams to the inside of the cam shell (shell of the machine) but BEFORE you do take a photo on how its aligned and ENSURE you keep the screws in the as you removed them so you know which goes where. Note that there are no ledges that needles can get jammed on.
SEE RIGHT PHOTO - For ease of reference note how the lower left and right parts kind of look like two pigs kissing. Each you see has two screws (applied from the outside). Note where the parts meet under the V cam, that they are flush (even). Inside here are Left and Right Up Throw Cams - parts with pegs that are triggered on the outside of the shell by the part the ramp segment that the yarn carrier installs onto. When reinstalling ensure you put the correct parts in the right place and don’t over tighten these four screws as they still need the Up Throw Cam parts to be able to move freely up and down.
Regardless to having an AUTO KNITTER or a LEGARE (or something similar) - how to re-assemble the main components is the same - as is the alignment/install of the yarn carrier attachment to the machine. Please refer again to the AUTO KNITTER VIDEO for ease and clarity.
This page is a work in progress and will be worked on further once I have more time.